Red-footed tortoises (Chelonoidis carbonarius) are popular pet reptiles because of their dynamic nature and easy-going personalities. The red-footed tortoise is one of approximately 50 species of tortoises. These tortoises are naturally found in the Caribbean islands and Central and South America. While these tortoises are often sold as juveniles, it is important to recognize that they can grow to over 15 kg (30 pounds)! In addition to their large size, they are long lived (50+ years). Therefore, it is important to plan (way ahead) for such a large long-lived species of tortoise. It is important to research the specific species of each species to ensure you are providing them with best care practices.
By doing your homework ahead of time, you will ensure that you have the best habitat and nutrition prepared for your tortoise before their arrival to your home.
Quick facts
- The red-footed tortoise is native to Central and South America.
- Male red-footed tortoises have a concave plastron (bottom of shell) and longer tail than females.
- Red-footed tortoises are omnivores because in the wild they will opportunistically eat carrion and insects along with grasses and fruits.
- When housed outside, red-footed tortoises prefer to graze for food in the early (7-10 am) and later hours (2-6 pm) of the day and will seek shade during the warmest part of the day (10 am-2 pm).
- With appropriate care, red-footed tortoises can live 50+ years.
Enclosure
For red-footed tortoises, it is important to provide the largest enclosure possible. For indoor enclosures, a glass tank works well for juvenile tortoises; however, they tend to outgrow these in 2-3 years. In most cases, purpose-built tortoise tubs or outdoor pens are required as the tortoises grow. Remember, a larger enclosure will provide more exercise room for the tortoise, which can help decrease the likelihood of obesity. For tortoises, the horizontal size (length and width) of the enclosure is more important than the vertical height of the enclosure.
For outdoor pens, the same recommendation holds true, bigger is better. It is also important to be sure that the tortoise cannot escape the enclosure. Protecting tortoises from wild predators, such as racoons, is also an important consideration for tortoises housed outside.
Substrate
There are several different substrates that can be used for red-footed tortoises, including astroturf/green carpet, recycled paper substrates, and different types of wood substrate (e.g., cypress, aspen). The astroturf/green carpet substrate is good after first acquiring the tortoise to monitor its feces, or to use in separate smaller enclosures as a feeding station. The recycled paper is good because it is easy to clean and does not produce dust. While wood mulches are aesthetic, they can impact the humidity in the enclosure. The substrates should be spot-cleaned daily to remove waste and changed regularly (based on type and how soiled they become). For outdoor pens, a grass-based substrate can serve as both a substrate and source of food.
Accessories
Red-footed tortoises should be provided areas to burrow or hide (shelter). They don’t need much else as they tend to be rather destructive as they move around in their enclosure or pen.
Temperature and Lighting
All reptiles should be provided with supplemental environmental heat to ensure they can meet their needs. As poikilotherms or ectotherms, they depend on their environmental temperature to regulate their core temperature. For red-footed tortoises housed indoors, heat can be provided using a basking lamp. The basking lamp should be situated over one-side of the enclosure to provide a gradient of temperature. If the enclosure is large, multiple heat lamps with variable wattage (higher on one side, lower on the other side) may be needed to achieve the desired environmental temperature range. The daytime temperature range for red-footed tortoises should be 80-88oF. By having a gradient of temperatures, the tortoise can move from warmer to cooler temperatures based on its preference. The nighttime enclosure temperature can drop by 10oF; this is often achieved simply by turning off the heat lamp. The environmental humidity for these tortoises should be 50-60%.
An ultraviolet B (UVB) bulb would also be beneficial for red-footed tortoises. Research done using Fluker Farms UVB bulbs has shown that these animals can increase their vitamin D concentrations following UVB exposure. Vitamin D is an essential hormone that regulates bone health, immune function, and heart health, among other factors.
Indoor tortoises should be exposed to basking and UVB lighting for 12 and 2 hours per day, respectively. Outdoor tortoises exposed to a natural photoperiod (12 hours) will receive suitable heat and UVB exposure.
Diet and Nutrition
Red-footed tortoises are omnivores, but happily practice herbivory in captivity. Providing a variety of foods, such as commercial diets (e.g., Fluker Farms Crafted Cuisine), mixed vegetables (e.g., carrots, green beans, squash), and fresh greens (e.g., romaine lettuce, collared and dandelion green), is a fantastic way to meet their needs.
Juvenile red-footed tortoises should be fed daily, but as they age that can be altered to every other day. Because red-footed tortoises don’t get much exercise in captivity, they can become too heavy if fed daily. Offering too many calories to these tortoises can also lead to shell pyramiding, an abnormal growth pattern associated with the carapace (top) of the shell. Offering smaller, low-calorie meals, such as grass hays, can reduce the likelihood of pyramiding.
Handling and Safety
Red-footed tortoises should be firmly grasped by the sides of the shell to provide support, and these tortoises become accustomed to handling overtime.
Because tortoises can carry Salmonella, it is important to thoroughly wash your hands after handling these animals or their enclosure. Children should always be supervised when handling tortoises and observed closely to ensure they thoroughly wash their hands after handling the animal or anything associated with their enclosure.
Contact a veterinarian if you notice any signs of illness or distress such as more time spent hiding in the shell, eating less, weight loss, swollen joints, discharge from the eyes or nose, discolored shell, or abnormal feces.
Shopping List
Diet- dry aquatic turtle food
Freeze-dried bugs
Live bugs
UVB lighting
Heat lamps
Others you have?