Green iguanas were the most common pet reptile at the end of the last and turn of the current century. Their popularity declined significantly as other smaller lizards, such as leopard geckos and bearded dragons, became more popular. However, as a large, long-lived (15-20 years) lizard, green iguanas can make excellent pets for those who can provide the appropriate husbandry for them. Because of this, these lizards are regaining popularity, and different color morphs (e.g., albino, leucistic, red) are also being selectively bred, similar to other species of reptiles (e.g., leopard geckos, corn snakes, ball pythons). These lizards have a “dog-like” personality and become readily attached to their pet parent.
By doing your homework ahead of time, you will ensure that you will have the best habitat and nutrition for your green iguana prepared before their arrival to your home.
Quick facts
- Green iguanas are native to Central and South America.
- Green iguanas are ectotherms and depend on environmental temperatures to regulate their core body temperature.
- The scientific name of the green iguana is Iguana iguana.
- You can determine the sex of an adult green iguana by looking at the underside of their thigh. Males have large femoral pores, while females have very small pores.
- Green iguanas are herbivorous and should be fed a variety of leafy greens and vegetables.
- With appropriate care, green iguanas can live for 15-20 years.
Enclosure
For green iguanas, it is important to provide the largest enclosure possible. There are a number of different types of enclosures available for these large lizards, including glass tanks, reptile specific enclosures, and home-made enclosures. The larger the enclosure, the more exercise the iguana can get, which is important to maintain an ideal weight and reduce the risks of problems associated with obesity. It is preferred that the enclosure is at least 2-3 times the length of the iguana body length. When selecting an enclosure for an iguana, both the horizontal size (length and width) and vertical height are important because these lizards are arboreal and like to spend time climbing.
The type of material used for the enclosure is an important consideration for disinfection. This is generally not a major concern for glass tanks or commercially made reptile enclosures but can be an issue for home-made enclosures made of wood. Because wood is difficult to disinfect, it is not recommended as building material for an enclosure.
Substrate
There are a number of different substrates that can be used for green iguanas, including astroturf/green carpet, recycled paper substrates, and different types of wood substrate (e.g., cypress, aspen). The astroturf/green carpet substrate is good after first acquiring an iguana to monitor its feces, or to use in separate smaller enclosures as a feeding station. The recycled paper is good because it is easy to clean and does not produce dust. While wood mulches are aesthetic, they can impact the humidity in the enclosure. The substrates should be spot-cleaned daily to remove waste and changed regularly (based on type and how soiled they become).
Accessories
Green iguanas should be provided ample branches for climbing. Different sized and textured (bark, no bark) branches are important to use because they provide the iguana with different surfaces to grasp. This allows them to “exercise” their toes (digits) and remove shed on the bottom of the feet. Having some branches under a heating lamp or ultraviolet B light will provide basking areas for the iguana.
Weighted food and water bowls should be provided. The weighted bowls will reduce the likelihood of the iguanas tipping over the bowls. The bowls should not be too deep, especially for juvenile animals, to prevent drowning. Fresh water should be provided daily.
Temperature and Lighting
All reptiles should be provided with supplemental environmental heat to ensure they can meet their needs. As poikilotherms or ectotherms, they depend on their environmental temperature to regulate their core temperature. For green iguanas, heat can be provided through two avenues: a basking lamp and an under-tank heater. A basking lamp should be situated over one-side of the enclosure to provide a gradient of temperature. If the enclosure is large, multiple heat lamps with variable wattage (higher on one side, lower on the other side) may be needed to achieve the desired environmental temperature range for green iguanas. The daytime temperature range for green iguanas should be 80-88oF. By having a gradient of temperatures, the iguana can move from warmer to cooler temperatures based on its preference. The nighttime enclosure temperature can drop by 10oF; this is often achieved simply by turning off the heat lamp. An under-tank heat pad can be used in areas where ambient temperature in a household becomes too cool for the iguana (<70oF). The environmental humidity for these lizards should be 60-80%.
An ultraviolet B (UVB) bulb would also be beneficial for green iguanas. Research done using Fluker Farms UVB bulbs has shown that these animals can increase their vitamin D concentrations following UVB exposure. Vitamin D is an essential hormone that regulates bone health, immune function, and heart health, among other factors.
Green iguanas should be exposed to basking and UVB lighting for 12 and 2 hours per day, respectively.
Diet and Nutrition
Green iguanas are herbivores. Providing a variety of foods, such as commercial diets (e.g., Crafted Cuisine), mixed vegetables (e.g., carrots, green beans, squash), and fresh greens (e.g., romaine lettuce, collared and dandelion green), is a fantastic way to meet their needs.
Juvenile iguanas should be fed daily, but as they age that can be altered to every other day. Because iguanas don’t get much exercise in captivity, they can become too heavy if fed daily. Smaller meals that they must search for can increase their daily exercise.
Handling and Safety
Green iguanas are typically gentle lizards and can be handled by supporting their long body with your open hands. They tend to want to always move forward and climb, so be sure they don’t fall and injure themselves. The nails of green iguanas are used for climbing trees, so they are sharp. The tips can be trimmed (just the point) to reduce the risk of scratching. When alarmed, iguanas will also use their tail to whip a perceived threat. Never grab the tail of the iguana because they can experience natural tail autotomy, where their tail can break free. Fortunately, green iguanas can regrow their tail, although it will look different from the original tail.
Because green iguanas can carry Salmonella, it is important to thoroughly wash your hands after handling these animals or their enclosure. Children should always be supervised when handling any reptile and observed closely to ensure they thoroughly wash their hands after handling the lizard or anything associated with their enclosure.
Contact a veterinarian if you notice any signs of illness or distress such as more time spent hiding in the cage, eating less, weight loss, swollen joints, discharge from the eyes or nose, or abnormal feces.
Shopping List
Diet- Crafter cuisine- garden diet
UVB lighting
Heat lamps
Thermometer/hygrometer
Substrate
Others you have?